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CHICKEN DOUBT


My horoscope said I should have a romantic dinner for two. So I did. Boy, am I full. On second thought, my local prognosticator probably intended for me to share a meal with someone else, but that wasn't clear to me until afterwards, when I was unable to bend over to reach my shoes, in the hopes of untying them and slipping them off. I'll know better next time.

Actually, the food was pretty tasty. Your basic chicken.  Although, come to think of it, not EXACTLY your basic chicken. This chicken was hard chilled, that is, before it was cooked.

I used to think you could go to the market and buy either fresh or frozen anything. Chicken, however, now comes in a third category: hard chilled. It turns out producers of strictly FRESH chicken have been up in drumsticks against the purveyors of SLIGHTLY frozen chicken. That's chicken that has been refrigerated to 26 degrees all the way down to zero, for purposes of transportation, and then thawed and sold as fresh. But isn't that the temperature at which things pretty much freeze solid, you ask. Yes, most everything, but not chicken, it turns out. Legally, that is. Not actually.

In a state with over 30 million people, there's an opportunity to sell quite a lot of yard bird, and any dumb cluck can figure there's a fortune to be made. So growers throughout the South truck their birds west to the lucrative California market. In order to do that, they have to chill them down to a temperature where they won't turn foul. Once they get to market, they're sold as fresh.

But California itself has a huge poultry industry and is able to sell locally-grown chicken that is REALLY fresh, at least by comparison. Since they charge more for fresh, the out-of-staters want to cash in on this FRESH chicken category, but, of course, when you have a dead chicken riding in a truck through the desert southwest to get to California for three days, it's got to be frozen, at least as you and I know the term. But frozen chicken sells for a lot less. Of course, it would sell for EVEN LESS not frozen.

So not to be outdone with their paltry poultry, the Southerners have challenged the Californians to a game of chicken, at least as far as the labeling terminology is concerned. And the Californians have won. The latest results have just been announced on CNN.

Fresh chicken is any chicken stored at 26 degrees or above. Frozen chicken is any chicken stored or trucked to market at zero or below. And that temperature range between 26 degrees on down to zero will now be known as "hard chilled". These are the new federal guidelines, although the National Broiler Council has not given them what you might say is a winging endorsement.

This opens up a whole new category for everything. Those of us who spend a week or two a year visiting the tundra states, Minnesota in my case, know that when the temperature drops to, say, the mid-teens you can now expect to hear your mother say, "Be careful driving. There could be patches of hard-chilled water on the roads." Instead of giving someone the cold shoulder, you can ease up a bit and not really freeze them out by giving only the hard-chilled shoulder. And in summer, you could offer guests a glass of hard-chilled tea. The possibilities are mind-numbing, or at least mind-chilling. Make up a few of your own. Good.

I don't know who thought up this middle category, "hard chilled", but they surely deserve to win the Pullet Surprise, if they give such an award, for who knows what you're going to get? Is this a partially-thawed frozen chicken? Or a somewhat-frozen fresh chicken? And what difference does it make once the chicken is cooked? And by the way, does the National Broiler Council have jurisdiction over baked or fried chicken? Chicken cacciatore? Chicken gumbo? Chicken à la King (actually, a certain boxing promoter has this one cornered). And the all-time medicinal classic, chicken soup.

All this chicanery may be chic for some who care how their poulterer gets the bird. But, since this squawk is mostly between squabblers, it's pretty much a lot of cock-a-doodle-doo-doo as far as the rest of us are concerned, except for the price we end up paying, which as you could guess, won't be chicken feed.

Say, if you're cooking a chicken in the oven, and there's a weird noise in the kitchen, could it be a sign you have a poulter-geist?

No, I'm sorry I mentioned it. In fact, if I don't stop soon, I'll be into "Why did the chicken cross the road" jokes, of which there are several. Jokes, I mean, not roads. And don't forget those roads could be covered with water, hard chilled. Guess I've been cooped up too long. I guess I'll go out to the store, as soon as I get dressed and ready for market.

 

 



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